The coastal drive
If you only do one drive while in Sóller, this is the one you want. It takes in stunning sea and pine-clad mountain views, passes through the lovely jumble of honey-coloured houses that is Deiá, gives you the chance to visit two imposing cliff-top country estates, and offers a moment of contemplation at an isolated mountain monastery. Further along you can brave the tourist crowds in the undeniably postcard-perfect Valldemossa. Then it’s a across a sweeping plane and over a craggy ridge and down into the staggeringly gorgeous Banyalbufar. In total it’s just a one-hour drive – just 36 km – but with all the stops will easily fill your day. There are plenty of spots along the way for a swim too. And you can come back via Esporles (a quicker 45-minute drive) taking in three formidable country estates on the way home: La Granja, Raixa and Alfabia.
Take the road from Sóller to Deià. Along the way, there are two lovely places to go swimming. The first is the lovely, lonely cove at Bens D’Avall. Further along, you’ll pass the snug hamlet of Llucalcari, which boasts a longer pebbly beach. For more details and directions visit the Beaches section.
About a kilometre before Deià, there is a turn on your left to Deià’s beach, Cala Deià. Watch out for the bus stop and the signs for two restaurants: La Caleta Cas Patro March and Can Lluc. These are fine places to eat and drink and are in a lovely setting.
Back on the main road, on your left, just before you arrive in Deià. you’ll find the Robert Graves House Museum, an evocative tribute to the author who lived and worked here.
Next stop is Deià. Read more here.
There are three great paces to stop on the road between Deià and Valldemossa: two country estates and a small still-working monastery.
Son Marroig: Beautiful 19th-century house and fetching gardens, once the home of the eccentric Austrian archduke Ludwig Salvator. A favourite with wedding parties
Miramar: Incredible views from the grounds of this handsome house built on the site of what was once the school of medieval philosopher Ramón Llull.
Ermita de la Trinitat: Slightly harder to find and up a narrow road (don’t worry, you’ll fit), is this charming little monastery, still inhabited by a clutch of hermits who religiously tend their neat vegetable garden. You can wander around the outdoor spaces and courtyards and the visit the chapel. The views along the coast from the lookout point are sublime.
The road to the Ermita is a little hard to spot. Watch out for a restaurant with a big car park on your right, called Can Costa. 100 metres further along you will see a steep turn on your left. Take that. See photo below.
You can now choose to visit Valldemossa or continue on to Banyalbufar. Valldemossa is well worth a visit. It is in a lovely setting (though better approached from the Palma side for the view) and is unquestionably picturesque. Yet it has given itself over to tourism and the ghosts Chopin and George Sand, and on busy days gets coach loads of camera-toting vacationers.The streets are lined with postcard and tawdry trinket stands and the restaurants serve middling fare. Admission fees into the Cartuja monastery are a steep 8.50. Even so, if you haven’t been before and you catch the town on a quiet day or in the evening, it is well worth the visit.
Beach detour: There is a long, windy road down to the charming Port Valldemossa. No real beach as such, but there is a sea wall where you can sit and plunge into the deep waters and a bar/restaurant for drinks and food.
Finally, go on towards Banyalbufar, a magnificent little town that tumbles down a grand staircase of terraces towards the sea. There are no major attractions here to visit, rather, just enjoy the setting, have a drink or two and make your way down to the beach at the bottom of town. Keep driving west for 1.5 km and you’ll get to the Torre des Verger, a 16th-century watch tower with jaw-dropping views.
Optional route home: You can now come back the way you came. Or take the road from Banyalbufar to Esporles and on to Soller, via the tunnel. This is actually quicker – about a 45 minute drive and there are things to see on the way, such as the country estate and gardens of La Granja. This is a wonderful country finca with gardens – overexploited and overpriced, but beautiful all the same.
Finally: if you haven’t yet visited the marvellous country estates of Raixa and Alfabia, you can now do so as you take the main Palma-Soller road back home.