Port de Sóller

Port Sóller, with its broad horseshoe bay and small sandy beach, is almost entirely given over to summer tourism. It has, of course, suffered from over development but nowhere near on the scale of unfortunate Port Andratx, for instance. The old town is on the right-hand side, where the tram ends, but the beach – the Platja de’n Repic, is better on the far side of the bay.

Background

The Port is a pleasant place to spend a few days: there’s no shortage of bars and restaurants and you can also take boat trips along the coast to Sa Calobra. The oldest building in the Port is the Oratory of St Catherine of Alexandria, built in 1280 and now a maritime museum exploring Sóller’s intimate relationship with the sea and the world beyond. For centuries the townsfolk of Sóller lived up the hill, huddled together for safety in Sóller itself to escape the ravages of Barbary pirates who frequently attacked the coast and carried villagers off to the slave markets of Algiers. In 1561 they arrived in force but were beaten back by the locals, an event still raucously celebrated and reenacted every year in May.

As the danger of attack subsided, a more permanent settlement sprang up on the right-hand side of the bay (as you look seaward). In the 19th century a booming trade in citrus fruit, olives and textiles with southern France and mainland Spain saw steamers dock and fishermen’s huts turn into town houses. The tram arrived in 1912.
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The old town is on the right-hand side, where the tram ends, but the beach – the Platja de’n Repic – is better on the far side of the bay.

Eating and drinking

A click on the restuarnt links will take you to reviews on Tripadvisor.

Starting on the left-hand side of the bay, on the Repic beach, there’s the cool Agapanto bar and restaurant. It has a chilled-out Ibiza vibe with great food and great views. Coming back along the beach is the excellent Es Reco, located in an old boat house and right on the sand, serving great food often with a Peruvian twist. Try the ceviche! On the pedestrianised paseo, there is an international options: the Indian restaurant Red Fort, which is good value. Nearby, is the excellent Es Canyis, run by the same local family since 1954. Try the fish, fresh from the port. Likewise, Sa Taronja is excellent.

Moving along the seafront and following the tram tracks is the Hotel Esplendido, a chic retro hotel with an outstanding menu. From here on, there’s an almost unbroken line of restaurants sweeping round the bay as far as the old town. Highly recommended in this area  is Nunu. The best of the bunch include Es PagésSes Oliveres, Las Palmeras and Ca’s Mariner – all are great for seafood and paellas. Kingfisher, on the harbour front is fabulous. There’s also an excellent Indian restaurant called Maharani, off the seafront on the boulevard Carrer d’Antoni Montis, 17.

Further inland, but worth the quick stroll (at the beginning of Calle Belgica) is the seafood and paella specialist Sol y Sombra and Sóller’s best pizzería Bellamé.

Finally, a little out of town perched on a high cliff with some of the best views on the island is the reasonably priced Bar Nautilus. It’s a sublime spot for sunsets and cocktails, though arguably not the best food in town.

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BOATING AND SAILING

No trip to Sóller is complete without an adventure on the high seas

ON FOUR WHEELS

Hire a car and see places off the beaten track

OUR TOP BEACHES

The rugged coast is blessed with enticing, sheltered coves