Beaches
Thanks to its location on the northwestern coast, where the brooding Tramuntana mountain range plunges spectacularly into the sea, the coast around here has been spared the charmless development that has blighted much of Spain. The rocky coast means, however, that long strands of white sandy beaches are non-existent. Instead, the coast is dotted with beautiful secluded coves of rocky, shingly beaches where pine trees hang dizzily over the Med, some only accessible by boat. Here we deal merely with those you can reach on foot, a quick drive or by public transport. There’s also a fantastic outdoor pool in town — see the last entry on this page.
Though lacking in long, white strands, the coast here has been spared the ravages of overdevelopment
PORT SÓLLER — As the coast’s major resort, Port Sóller hasn’t escaped the ravages of tourist development. That said, it’s an understated kind of place, with relatively low-rise construction and the horseshoe bay is undeniably pretty. The whole of the bay is lined with hotels, bars and restaurants, so it makes for a good beach day out if you want to soak up the rays, have a dip,then a few drinks and a bite to eat. There are also sun loungers and parasols aplenty.
There are essentially two beach areas in the Port. To the left as you face the sea (west), is the longer, wider Playa (or Platja) de Repic beach. Make your way to the far end, where the excellent bar Es Reco (ceviche and pisco!) is or a little further to the restaurant Agapanto, to get away from the worst of the crowds. You can even venture further around the rocky headland and find yourself in the more open sea. Swim here at your own risk, though. The sea can turn choppy here sometimes and there is no lifeguard in sight.
To the right, as you face the sea (east), and along the tram line, you’ll find what’s known as the Port beach This is nearer the old town and functioning port and is a little narrower than Repic.
BENS D’AVALL — This a beautiful, wild, isolated, rocky cove halfway between Sóller and Deia. View map for directions. Basically take the Dia road and just after the nice Son Bleda hotel, you’ll see a sharp right, with a big sign for Bens D’avall restaurant. Park beside the pricey restaurant Bens D’avall. Then climb over the tiny stone wall, cross the dry stream and pick up the path on the other side. Follow this downhill for less than ten minutes. The last part is a bit of a steep scramble down an earth path. It’s usually quiet and you should try and claim a spot on the boathouse ramp.You’ll need to bring all your own food and water.
The tiny cove near Bens D’avall is a lonely, idyllic spot. But wear sensible shoes and bring water
LLUCALCARI – This is a long stony beach three-quarters of the way towards Deia, around 6.5km on the MA10, beneath the postcard-perfect hamlet of Llucalcari. Far from civilization, many go nude here. View map for directions. Park sensibly on the main road or in any available spot and walk downhill for about 300 metres. Can also be accessed by the 210 bus, which has a stop at Llucalcari. You’ll need to bring all your own food and water.
CALA DEIÀ — A half-hour walk from Deia down through olive groves leads you to a picturesque shingly beach, known as Cala Deia, where there two easy-going chiringuitos or beach bars, both serving up great home cooking and fish. Ca’s Patró March is the one on higher ground and is more expensive than the simpler Ca’n Lluc right on the beach. You can also drive right down and pay the parking meter, then walk the last five minutes.
Cala Deià, while undeniably lovely, can be a crowded hellhole in peak season
SÓLLER TENNIS CLUB – Finally, if you’re tired sitting on shingle and getting sand in your shoes, try the huge open-air swimming pool on the outskirts of Sóller (a scenic 25-minute walk). It’s in the tennis club (entry 4 euros) and enjoys truly spectacular views over the town and of the looming peaks of the Tramuntana mountains. There are sunbeds to lie back on and a cheap bar. Best of all, it is usually very quiet. View map.
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