Port Sóller, with its broad horseshoe bay and small sandy beach, is almost entirely given over to summer tourism. It has, of course, suffered from over development but nowhere near on the scale of unfortunate Port Andratx, for instance. The old town is on the right-hand side, where the tram ends, but the beach – the Platja de’n Repic, is better on the far side of the bay.

As the danger of attack subsided, a more permanent settlement sprang up on the right-hand side of the bay (as you look seaward). In the 19th century a booming trade in citrus fruit, olives and textiles with southern France and mainland Spain saw steamers dock and fishermen’s huts turn into town houses. The tram arrived in 1912.
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Moving along the seafront and following the tram tracks is the Hotel Esplendido, a chic retro hotel with an outstanding menu. From here on, there’s an almost unbroken line of restaurants sweeping round the bay as far as the old town. Highly recommended in this area  is Nunu. The best of the bunch include Es Pagés, Ses Oliveres, Las Palmeras and Ca’s Mariner – all are great for seafood and paellas. Kingfisher, on the harbour front is fabulous. There’s also an excellent Indian restaurant called Maharani, off the seafront on the boulevard Carrer d’Antoni Montis, 17.

Further inland, but worth the quick stroll (at the beginning of Calle Belgica) is the seafood and paella specialist Sol y Sombra and Sóller’s best pizzería Bellamé.

Finally, a little out of town perched on a high cliff with some of the best views on the island is the reasonably priced Bar Nautilus. It’s a sublime spot for sunsets and cocktails, though arguably not the best food in town.